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Toro Tamer Rigging Techniques

Toro Tamer Super Braid


Hollow Needle Required
For inserting your leader into the braided line, you will use a hollow threading needle matched to the line diameter of your leader. Insert the leader into the hollow braid 36 inches or greater, I recommend going up into the braid 3-6 feet (going further up for your heavier rigs or when connecting lighter leader to heavier braided lines). Then, at the transition point of the leader to braid you will want to secure your line. The hollow braid will lock down onto the leader, however if you do not secure the transition point you will be able to move the braid over the leader under slack lin, even pulling the leader out of the braid. Under a tight pull it won't come out, but with more gentle pressure it will. So, there should be some transition securement made to prevent slippage.

The transition between braid and leader needs to be secured. That can be done with a serve at that transition point or one or more nail knots plus an adhesive. Alternatively you could make several overhand knots to secure that point however that's bulkier and not as clean a connection as the nails or serve. On lighter tests simply gluing this point is adequate, though not recommended for extended use. I most often make use of multiple nail knots on leaders of 50 lb. test or less, and use a serve at the transition of heavier leaders. Some anglers, experienced long range users most typically, will use a "nub knot" rather than the serve. This transition connection puts a nail knot on the leader about 2 inches above the transition of the two lines. Then multiple nail knots are used between the "nub" which is on the leader, over the braid before the leader. In the following video we show how to make an in-line connection using three nail knots and a bit of our Toro Braid glue to secure the transition point between leader and braid, running the leader inside the braid for 3 feet or so.



Loop or Latch Needle Required
To join two hollow lines together, you will insert the end of each line into the other using either the loop or latch needle. Most go 12-18 inches for each insertion. We'll start with the darker green line inserting the needle about 12 inches from the end of the yellow line and pulling the green line up into the yellow braid and then come back out of the line approximately 24 inches up into the yellow line away from it's end. Using the tag of the yellow line, perform the same insertion into the green braid, again exiting the yellow line after insertion of about 12 inches. The tag end of the yellow line should be inserted into the green line - locking down the splice. Repeat the same for the green line.

You will work with about 24-36 inches of each line, inserting one within the other 12-18 inches. Once you've inserted the line using your loop or latch needle...

...bring the line out of the braid and then go back into the braid about 1/4 to 1/2 inch and bury your tag end of the line back into the hollow braid.


Once you've locked down the splice by coming out of the braid and back inside you can smooth over the "lock".

Repeat the procedure with the other section of line.


Lock down your tag ends within the hollow braid on both sides of the splice.




Loop or Latch Needle Required
To connect solid to hollow, similar procedure as above. Insert the "solid" line into the hollow (in the images below the red line is solid while the yellow line is hollow). Insert the solid line into the hollow a minimum of 24 inches, I will often go 3 feet. Then bring the solid line out of the hollow 1/2" and re-insert into the hollow and run it up 6-12 inches to lock it down. I like to add a nail knot to the transition point, and/or a touch of our Braid Adhesive to minimize line creep at the transition point.

Insert the "solid" braid within the hollow core braid using either a loop or latch needle.

Run the solid up into the hollow 3 feet.

You will need 8-12 inches of "tag" end of the solid to work with once you exit the hollow core line.

To prevent line slipage you will re-insert the tag end of the solid braid back into the hollow...

...leave 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap between where you exited the hollow and reinsert the solid into the hollow to the lock down the line.
Now you have secured the solid into the hollow core. However you still have the transition point to deal with to prevent the hollow braid to slip at the transition between the two lines.
Some make use of two "lock downs" one toward the beginning of the insertion and another towards the end as described.

Another variation is to simply glue and/or make use of a 7 turn nail knot at the transition point.

Once you've made the nail knot apply some Braid Adhesive.


Reverse Latch Needle Used
Making a loop with hollow braid is easy, and is commonly done when making use of wind-on leaders which allow quick change of topshots. The loop is also used on the wind-on leaders themselves allowing for loop to loop connecting of leaders. A loop made on the reel's braid, loops used on the wind-ons, and for making assist hook rigs for jigging lures. This is a very common rigging technique for heavier tackle targeting cow size tuna, but also increasingly common among more sophisticated anglers for their shorter leader fluorocarbon bait rigs as an alternative to simply rigging the leader into the hollow braid.

Start at a point 24-36 inches from the end of the braid, inserting the latch needle into the hollow braid, moving the point of the needle towards the end of the line. Using the latch needle, you will "latch" onto the hollow and then pull the line into the braid. Do not run the line all the way to the end of the braid. Instead come back out of the braid about 12 inches from the end of the line. You will have a loop on the braided line now. Next you will want to pull the braid (the outside braided line) with the tag end back over the inserted line, much like a sleeve being rolled up your arm. The line covering the inserted line is now "inside out." The final step will be to lock down the line. Using the tag end of the braid, now 12-24 inches from your loop, insert the tag end back into the hollow braid and run it up through the hollow braid. Under a pull this will help lock down the line so there's no slipping of the loop.



Begin at 24-36 inches from the end of the hollow braid, inserting the needle back towards the end of the line.


Make a loop and insert that into the latch needle (or loop), noting that the latch is preferred for this operation.


Run the line - with loop - down into the hollow.









Exit the hollow 24 or more inches and about 8-12 inches from the end of the braid.






Note the tag end of the braid, you'll make use of this to lock down the line.


Now, slide the braid back over the line with the loop.


You are turning the line inside out as you bring it back over the inserted line with loop.



The final step is to bury the tag end of the line back into the hollow braid.


Now you have locked down the loop so that it won't slip.



Reverse Latch Needle, Loop Needle, Hollow Rigging Needle Used
Making your own Wind-On leaders is economical and often far better than buying commercially made wind-ons. They're easy to rig with a bit of practice and there are several variations on how to make these useful rigs.

Dual Wall Wind-On Leaders, long version...


Heavy Wind-Ons - long version, covers nail knots and serving

Loop Needle, Hollow Rigging Needle Used
Megan demonstrates rigging up hollow braid as backing - without use of bulky knots...


Flyline Rigging using hollowcore braid.









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